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| HS and LD at Tateyama Castle |
Across the Tokyo-wan from the Mirura Peninsula lies a hidden gem. Tateyama City. Getting to the Chiba prefecture is a breeze...no need to travel up through the bustling metropolis of Tokyo only to head back down into the tranquility of Chiba. Skip all that and take the Tokyo-wan Ferry that departs out of Kurihama Port (20 min drive from the main base).
Knowing that this year I had no reason to stay around for the Navy Ball, I decided that the best way to celebrate the Navy's 240th birthday was to hop onboard an ITT bus and celebrate with the kids in Tateyama as we were hosted to the Tateyama City's Legendary Nanso Satomi Samurai Parade. A castle? A scrumptious lunch? Samaurai recreation of an old legend? Festive Japanese people drinking beer and sake as they carried and pulled mikoshi along a street in a coastal town? YES, please! Sign us up!
The ferry ride is about 45 minutes in a multi-leveled vehicle ferry. It is quite comfortable and has nice sitting spots where you can enjoy a cup of coffee and watch the fishing ships cast their nets into the water and cargo ships steaming towards Tokyo. Chiba prefecture loomed ahead of us with mountains heading straight into the sea. With an overcast sky, it definitely looked magical. Chiba prefecture is not that populated the natural beauty of Japan is the showcase. Upon arriving, we boarded the bus again and drove about 40 minutes to Tateyama-jo in Shiroyama Park (jo means "castle" in Japanese).
I adore castles in Japan. I don't care if most are recreations of the original. They are impressive, imposing, and absolute proof of Japanese ingenuity. They are built using the same techniques that they were originally built and the craftsman ship is phenomenal. Tateyama-jo is one of four castles in Chiba prefecture. It had an interesting musuem located inside that was dedicated to the novel written in the 19th century by
Kyokutei Bakin, "Nanso Satomi Hakkenden" or "Legend of the Eight Dog Warriors." The long and short of this epic story follows this excerpt from a Kabuki play:
The Satomi clan is being attacked and its lord offers his daughter Princess Fuse to the warrior that will bring him the head of the enemy. It is his loyal dog that kills and beheads the enemy and, saying that her father must not go back on his word, Princess Fuse goes with the dog.
Nevertheless, the Satomi clan is defeated and one of its loyal retainers goes to rescue Princess Fuse, shooting the dog, but unfortunately shooting Princess Fuse as well. The eight crystal beads of her rosary, each engraved with the Chinese characters of one of the Confucian virtues, goes flying through the air.
Miraculously, each will be found with a newborn baby. These eight children, all of whom have the character inu for "dog" in their names, eventually meet and join together to restore the Satomi clan. The play features all the stars of the company and follows the adventures of the eight dog warriors as they meet and gradually join together, leading to a climactic fight on the roof of a dizzyingly high tower.
Pretty intriguing story and the kids were hooked. Win for me. I wasn't rushed through the museum. What would this have to do with the festival we were going to see later, you ask? Apparently, part of the Nanso Satomi Samurai Festival would be a recreation of the power that the Satomi clan held over the Bosu peninsula. They were the dominating family during the 9th and 10th generations of the Satomi Feudal Lords. So, the samurai we would see later were meant to represent the Satomi clan.
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| Path leading from the teahouse |
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| HS and LD await their "macha" |
One cool aspect of the castle was that on the grounds there was a traditional style teahouse and an exquisite garden. For 300yen we were able to enjoy a cup of green tea and sweet. Don't mind if we do. I adore the many customs found while just watching a tea ceremony. From Tateyama-jo we boarded the bus again and headed to lunch. This would be one of the most unforgettable lunches to date. Words can't even really describe it. Just know via the photos below...that we usually eat EVERYTHING...and well...we did for this lunch although I knew I was not going to do well with a fish starring at me as I ate sashimi.
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LD's lunch:
Rice with salad, shrimp tempura, and fish patty
side of creamed corn soup
little dish of chowan mushi |
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HS and I were treated to a sea snail being
cooked over individual hibachi.
Please note: I took one for the team. I ate mine
but gave permission for HS to leave his alone. |
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HS and my lunch:
Bento box with three tiers:
1st Tier: Veggies and Roots with a Salmon and onion salad
2nd Tier: Sashimi
3rd Tier: Rice
Chowan Mushi
Dessert |
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| Taking photos with the Samurai |
Once we finished our lunch it was time to head to the festival. We arrived just in time to enjoy the proclamation speech beginning the festivities and enjoy the costumed warriors parade down the center of the street as if they were still in feudal time. The kids enjoyed watching them and were amazed at the footwear...HS wants a pair...ummm...that would make a statement at school.
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| Festival masks...can't ever leave without one! |
Festivals in Japan are a huge celebration. Drums, scents, and laughter fill the air. Make sure you choose a festival mask!
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| Showcasing their Mikoshi |
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| The Mikoshi bands are always fun to watch |
Eventually I need to just post on the customs and traditions of the Mikoshi. Think of each Mikoshi as a team. Those who participate wear a uniform decked out in their "team" colors. They participate in the festival as a unit. They party together, shout together their cheers, eat together, and drink together...a lot. of. sake.
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Drinks to go onboard.
Gotta stay "hydrated" |
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Love how the children are always in the parades helping
to bring the mikoshi down the street. True handing down of
the culture |
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View of the parade from the
Tateyama train station |